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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.